Can I put a Cummins in my vehicle? The answer is almost always YES. We have personally put Cummins in 1959 thru 2008 Fords, F150's to Superdutys & 2 Tons
1973 thru 2001 Chevrolets, 2001-2006 Hummers, Motorhomes, Bale Handler (Mad Maxx) and a rear engine dragster - with 5.9's
from 1988 to 2006 Cummins and 4BTA' (we are currently R&Ding the newer Chevrolets) Motorhomes, Our customers have asked for custom mounts for such things as a CAMARO, there's lots of Jeeps out there with 4b's so the sky is the limit!
What about my transmission? You can use Dodge NV4500's & 5600's, Ford ZF5, ZF6, E40D, 4R75, 4R100, 5R110 (requires a non-stock torque converter)
Chevrolet NV4500 (with an input shaft kit, Dodge bellhousing & clutch) 4L80E, Allison 1000, Muncie 4spd to 4B's (NOT recommended with the 5.9's) with the appropriate trans adapters (Destroked) and controllers (we use PCS ONLY) there are several options!
Can i use my transfer case? If you are using your stock transmission, of course yes. If you are switching out to something other than stock - then you
may need to use an adapter or switch out the transfer case too. You can call us (Ken) for advice on what will work if I don't
have it covered on the OEM specific FAQ section.
Will i need to move my trans back? With our mounts, the answer is YES - we NEVER use electric fans, except in HUMMERS where we have no choice then its THREE fans, a controller and $900.00 for quality components! In the trucks that are pulling, especially in the hot months it is
NOT recommended (footnotes in the Flexalite book)....and if you live in a hot climate - even more so!!
Then there is the "electric" curse - if you lose a fan in the middle of nowhere - you are STUCK. With the 4B's being shorter, the
transmission can stay in the stock position. IF you have a 95 and newer block with the 6 boss holes, a single set of mounts
can be bolted in the back 4 holes which will push the motor forward and allow an electric fan - again, NOT recommended - the
very LAST thing you do once your motor and transmission are in their final position - is refit your drivelines - you don't want to
make an expensive mistake in measuring!
Do i need to lift my truck? Only in the case of the Chevy's with the old body style and 4 wheel drive. This is an oil pan vs hood clearance issue - 4" is a
recommended. That applies to 67-87 and up to 91 in the crew cab's and Suburbans. The other hood clearance issue arises
in the 6.5 diesel trucks with the AC unit mounted up top on the drivers side (see the conversion parts section, accessory brackets)
this can be handled with a body lift, a cowl hood or changing out to a side mount AC.
Air Conditioning & Alternators? With the Chevy bodies and the older Fords there isn't sufficient room to use the Dodge AC - some people cut out the front
support to make room for it - we don't do that nor do we recommend compromising the strength and support in this area. This
is why we build OEM accessory brackets. See the OEM specific FAQ section for info on your application.
What about the guages? Wiring can be a scary thing. However, your stock guages can all work. Keep and MARK your essential sending units ie: water
temp, oil pressure, alternator, ac connectors & tack sending wire (if you have a tack in the dash) - reuse the water temp and
oil pressure sending units in the Cummins, plug the stock alternator and AC unit back in and wire in the tack (if on a 12 or 24
valve you need a tack adapter kit) on the commonrail, we have a tack bracket. The bottom line is leave EVERYTHING else in
stock form - strip out all the unused wires from your OEM engine harness, reloom and secure. The Superduty truck has enough
room to leave the Dodge AC unit on the engine - however, the hoses will need to be rebuilt - back side FORD, front side DODGE
block, have your local AC shop build this for you. See the OEM specific FAQ section.
How do i wire the Cummins? We will provide you with the appropriate wiring diagram - it's pretty basic, just tell me what year your motor is!
What about the Commonrail? If its a 03-06 5.9 Commonrail, we recommend the Painless Harness! Unless you are capable of building the fuse block, complete
with all the relays, starter wires, throttle position wiring, cruise wiring - its the only way to go, and will save you SEVERAL hours
of time and frustration - in 2005 we asked Mike Abbott, engineer at Painless if he could build us the pedal TPS wiring with cruise wires due to the fact that the portion needed was included in the "headlight to dash" wiring harness ($500 then - can you imagine now?) and not the engine harness - we were literally scrapping the rest of that harness because the connector is Dodge specific, trust me, I tried to find a source - Mike came back with a design for an entire harness, and after several back and forth talks about
what we would need for these types of conversions and a motor donated by our friend Scott Bentz at Cummins for engineering - it
was done! Of course we can give you the best price on this, being the design source - we have the best deal. I have asked Mike
to start on the 6.7 harness! (and a couple goodies for the dragster...) he's on it...!!!! The instruction manual is on their site- part
number is 60250.